Location
French Alps
Season
Year round
Summit Height
3,733 m
Resembling an improbably sharp rock needle when viewed from the west, the silhouette of the Aiguille du Dru is the poster — and postcard — child of the Mont Blanc massif. Overlooking the mountain town of Chamonix, its steep weather-beaten flanks and glacial terrain make it a formidable objective.
Its north face was first climbed in 1935 by Pierre Allain and Raymond Leininger, and is now considered one of the six ‘great north faces’ of the Alps. Tim Howell of the Jöttnar Pro Team gives an insight into this highly coveted north face route.
The Aiguille du Dru
The Dru's north face is a 1,000-metre wall of sustained mixed climbing, with reputation as one of the most committing routes in the massif. Modern fast parties have done it in a day from the valley; most teams plan for a bivouac on the route or at its base.
Conditions are everything. The face needs cold temperatures and a freeze-thaw cycle that locks the loose blocks together. Spring and autumn are the classic windows, but year-round ascents are now possible in the right windows.
TIM HOWELL — Jöttnar Pro Team | Base Jumper | Skier | Climber
@tim_howell_adventure · timhowelladventure.com
Key Considerations
- Approach: Long glacier walk from the Grands Montets cable car.
- Route-finding: Sustained mixed ground; reading the line is half the work.
- Bivouac: Ledge spots exist mid-route but are uncomfortable. Many teams push through.
- Descent: Multiple abseils down the standard route. Snag-free rope management essential.
Average Steepness: 70° · Normal Ascent Time: 1–2 Days · Grade: TD+
