Location
Zermatt, Switzerland
Season
Sep — Mar
Peak Elevation
4,478 m
With over 1,000 metres prominence and towering improbably over Switzerland’s alpine capital, Zermatt, the Matterhorn was first ascended in 1865 by a team led by British alpinist Edward Whymper. It wasn't until 1931, however, that its imposing north face was ascended.
Jöttnar’s Tom Grant lives in Chamonix and is an IFMGA mountain guide. Here he gives a first-hand account of climbing this highly prized route.
On The Matterhorn Summit Ridge
Although Whymper's summit in 1865 resulted in four of his seven-man team falling to their deaths on descent, the mountain has remained one of the most sought-after objectives in the Alps. Of its four faces, the north face is the most committing and serious — a roughly 1,200m sweep of mixed rock and ice culminating just below the summit ridge.
The face is best climbed in cold, settled winter conditions when the rock is welded with ice and snow. Modern times have seen the route done in under three hours, but for the rest of us a full day of focused movement is the norm.
TOM GRANT — Jöttnar Pro Team | IFMGA Mountain Guide | Skier | Climber
Based in Chamonix, Tom guides clients on the great north faces of the Alps year-round.
The Route in Brief
- Approach: From the Hornlihutte over the Matterhorn Glacier to the foot of the face.
- Lower Couloir: Steep snow and ice leading to the rocky heart of the face.
- Schmid Ridge: Sustained mixed ground with old in-situ pitons; route-finding key.
- Exit Gully: Final steep snow-ice runnel to the summit ridge.
- Summit Ridge: Easy but exposed scramble to the top.
The descent is usually via the Hornli Ridge — long, with multiple abseils. Reliable weather and confident movement on mixed ground are non-negotiable.
Average Steepness: 65° · Normal Ascent Time: 1–2 Days · Grade: TD+/ED
